Behind the Barrel-Strength: An Interview with Wyoming Whiskey’s David DeFazio

SW: Where’d you find those two barrels?

DD: They came from an area of our warehouse that is producing better barrels than other areas. This is in the northwest corner of Warehouse A, on the top floor. I’ve heard about there being sweet spots in warehouses where honey barrels come from. These two barrels were found side by side, by [Warehouse and Bottling Line Manager] Kermit Sweeney, on the top two layers of their rick.

SW: Why is this spot better for aging whiskey?

DD: There are so many variables. Air circulation and temperature changes are a big part, I think. That corner of Warehouse A doesn’t get any morning sun. But the honest answer is: I don’t really know. And within the next year or so, Kermit will probably find similar spots in Warehouses B and C. Those whiskeys just haven’t had time yet to develop.

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In general, because of our operation’s smaller size, we can pay closer attention to individual barrels. We’re able to observe patterns. At a larger company, I wonder if they taste individual barrels like we do.

David%20DeFazio%20photo%20courtesy%20Eric%20Kiehl
Wyoming Whiskey Co-Founder and COO, David DeFazio.

SW: What’s the background of those barrels?

DD: We wouldn’t try to hide anything. There is something with those two barrels.

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Back before [Former Maker’s Mark Master Distiller] Steve Nally started with us, we first consulted with [legendary Brown-Forman distiller] Lincoln Henderson. At the time, Woodford Reserve was big into accelerated maturation, and Lincoln wanted us to build a room in the warehouse for that. The room in the winter would heat up to 130 degrees, and then gradually drop down in temperature, mimicking summer. We built the room.

Lincoln led us to Steve, who’s more of a traditionalist. We had to twist Steve’s arm to experiment with the accelerated-maturation room. We rolled 20 barrels in. Turns out, none of us had considered the laws of physics. The barrels expanded too much. We almost blew them up. A number of them leaked.

These two barrels, they were in the accelerated-maturation room. They were the leakers. They leaked at a rapid rate for five years. When they were discovered, there was only 10-12 gallons left in the two 53-gallon barrels. They lost a tremendous amount to the angel’s share. But that helped in the oxidization process. There was a greater surface area, which could be more effectively oxidized. I believed that really helped produce the exceptional whiskey.

I don’t believe the heating process helped that much. It may have helped with a scant amount of flavor. The biggest factors, I believe, were the placement in the warehouse, the leaking, and the barrels just being made of good wood.

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